Interior poly may be common in your area but in regions with air conditioning needs, it's usually a bad idea. Yes fiberglass insulation permits air flow, that is dealt with via the interior min. Springtime Builders - The assemblies they are constructing meet the full requirements of the code. So, in Zone 4 you can easily get away with 1 inch of polyiso rigid board insulation on the outside (about an R5) and 2x6 walls on the inside filled with foam or cellulose or some other cavity insulation. I’ve used all 3 methods. The rater can make sure that the final product does not crash and burn when it is too late to fix very easily by checking on construction as it is happening. It makes for a solid house, and gives the room for the extra and affordable fiberglass. That being said for commercial and industrial applications it's a great option. Spray foam is an air sealant which allows your condition air to stay inside the house. Texas is brutal in the summer and I don't want to be installing equipment that may not be up to the task. Where is Worthy? IMO - it is a way to cover sloppy work and still get decent numbers. No, no, no to open cell foam in your area. A 2x4 clear wall value will only perform around an r11-13 at best. Next and last is a traditional 2x6. Due to lack of competition and the extra labor involved, it's equally affordable to use open cell spray foam in wall cavities. My builder is planning to use 2x4 exterior wall studs with open cell spray foam insulation. Major mass builders achieve this using 2X6 studs in conjunction with batt fiberglass insulation. Feb 20, 2019 - Spray Foam insulation is a wonderful product that makes your home more efficient and comfortable. One way to view all of this is that codes only establish a minimum and as such no builder is impeded from constructing using what they believe are superior methods, technologies and materials. This paper documents key components, advantages, and challenges for each wall system, In NC (zone 4 but 10 miles from zone 3), I am doing 2x6 with cellulose and R-3 foam on the outside. The architect designed it to be 2x4 with open cell spray foam. I was going to do fiberglass batts (and increase my rigid foam to compensate) but the sound abatement argument won out. In the summer humidity is often very high so condensation is a major concern all year round. Since closed cell spray foam isn't porous there is absolutely no way that can happen. My choice for wall structure in our cold climate is 2"x6" with high density batts and 1" of XPG sheathing. The industry up there is doing a poor job of meeting minimum building requirements, just like down here. Holy cow, there is lots of good advice here but some different opinions. A 2x4 wall, for that climate, is a very bad decision. I did a little checking and our OBC Supplement SB12 that covers this in detail was adopted in 2012, updated in 2016 and I believe there are some further amendments for 2018. Denim insulation helps a little but the main things to reduce sound is density, and de coupling. Outdoor air ventilation is now required by current IRC codes and a smart idea for any inhabited enclosed space. According to this blog, exterior insulative sheathing (continuous insulation) is required in Ontario. If you have many then this may be more important than wall construction from an insulation/energy standpoint. Mehr erfahren. Learn the material options, costs and other factors when replacing or updating your siding, Great home project: Replace your windows for enhanced style and function. R-1000 walls could perform worse than R-1 walls depending on air leakage. It looks like your joists are 16" on center, or 15" from side of joist to the next one. We need to know all components from the exterior finish through to the interior finish in conjunction with the applicable code requirements for thermal performance, air infiltration and vapor transmission. Birdman - I agree that closed cell is a waste of money. That would be an R value of about 10.5 which is absurd for a house in Michigan. Even if it is permitted, if it was may house I would insist that the exterior wall construction be change to accommodate a higher R value. I think adding foam to that is not cost effective but it does depend what you are heating with. Could this be an option for you? Anyway are … Lower Michigan is DOE climate zone 5 - requires R 20 walls in the 2009-2015 IECC. It is possible to meet the energy conservation requirements of US model codes using one of 3 methods. We're in the midst of this blizzard in Oklahoma, and the house is warm and draft free. Tip: Radiant barriers and vapor barriers are not rated by R-values. Spray Foam Insulation has 7. If the builder/owners do not have time to do the research, it is imperative that an architect current with the latest techniques, but not married to the idea that the latest is always the greatest is best is employed. Insulation blankets (batts and rolls) Spray foam insulation Foam board insulation Note that the material the insulation is made from will change the R-value as well. Talk with your builder about air sealing. Continuando, accetto che il gruppo Houzz utilizzi cookie o tecnologie simili al fine di ottimizzare i suoi prodotti e servizi, fornirmi contenuti rilevanti e personalizzare la mia esperienza. The facing must be placed face down when installing. Payoffs in added insulation and air sealing are usually less then 2-3 years for most houses. We have geothermal and radiant floor in garage and basement. He claims that their homes go through 3rd party testing and that they far exceed requirements, but he has never provided me with any specific R-value numbers. No such thing as a 2x6 wall that meets R20, without exterior insulative sheathing. I'd listen to Worthy on this topic. I am finding time and time again that exterior rigid foam sheeting seems to be the way to go regardless of what you insulate with between the studs. The difficulty in being able to properly advise the OP is the fact that we do not know the actual proposed completed exterior wall system. It gets more confusing when sometimes people quote with the small addition of sheathing, drywall, siding and air films - another 2-3 or so. I asked about 2x6 studs and he explained that the value of the foam A 2x4 wall using spray foam could easily exceed the 2x6 wall if spray foam was used, and or be even greater with an EIFS stucco finish. Is any work being done to the exterior? But that carries it's own added cost. Learn the types, materials and relative costs here, Save resources with a cooling or sustainable roof or add-on that looks great and fits your price range, Insulation offers one of the best paybacks on your investment in your house. Spray polyurethane foam starts out as a two-component fluid that quickly firms into place. It does however meet minimum code requirements and is most likely the most economical way to do so. I have to think you have an idjut for a builder. It will cost your slightly more, but what I try to explain to clients is your shell of your house should be your #1 priority to get right. Rein in your desire for a home "now"...or regret it later. I think paying extra for spray foam is pretty much crazy if you don't also eliminate the thermal break through the studs. Our open-cell foam product has an R-Value of 3.5 per inch and in most applications, a house constructed with 2x4 studs will have 3.5 inches of open cell foam thus resulting in a total R-value of 12. There are varying methods of exterior wall system construction that will likely meet these code requirements. Fiberglass Canada has both R22 and R24 batt insulation for 2X6 wall construction. Closed-Cell Foam Between Studs Is a Waste Energy Nerd: What really matters is the R-value of the whole wall, not just that of the insulation. I regret not using the XPS on the outside of the sheathing with a blown cellulose or fiberglass in my 2x6 walls. It would cost significantly more than foam sheathing and not be as effective. What is more cost effective, using (A) 2x4 with spray foam insulation, (B) 2x4 with batts and exterior sheathing, or (C) 2x6 with Pink Panther insulation? Most high performance builders are exceeding code with exterior insulation as code encourages risky wall strategies, hence the recommended minimum table I first posted about. Caulk is huge. The builder in question typically uses a 2x4 open cell spray foam wall assembly of R-14 and R-60 for the ceilings/roofs. This is your highest importance, next comes adding r vlaue. It eliminates tyvek which is installed wrong 90% of the time. The 2×4 wall with R-3 exterior insulation and the 2×6 wall both reduce the heat flow through walls by about a quarter (22% and 25% respectively). David Cary--Closed cell spray foam with nail base is my preferred method in a harsh environment when it works with the budget. However, raised floors should also be insulated as well. Thank you everyone for your comments and advice. If you reduce that as much as possible, then you drastically reduce the requirements of your heating. Would both choices be adequate for a 3,300sqft home with 12ft ceilings in common areas and 10ft ceilings in bedrooms or is the bid kinda skimping on equipment for reduced cost? 2 story, around 2500 sf. Should the owner wish to do this in the future after the build it's going to cost 10 times or more than that amount. Your numbers might be 1/2 that or more if you are just using air source (ie conventional) heat pumps with electric backup. Loose fill fiberglass is R 14. Do your research and ask questions. Here's a good BSC article about vapor barriers written by a famous Canadian building scientist. Tore out plaster ect. I visited a net-zero, LEED Platinum house and the builder used SIPS on the main floor and the alternative system on the 2nd. More insulation always helps but to give you an idea in my climate with NG, 1 inch of foam on a 2x4 wall has a 12-15 year payback. What is decided should be documented in your contract. In respect to indoor air quality this is the direct result of man made materials and the adoption of ever tightening air infiltration requirements. 2 story, around 2500 sf. The amount of garbage info from builders at times is frustrating. The sheathing should have a high enough R-value to limit moisture problems in framing (adsorption of humid interior air). I have seen pictures of improper installations. Also, there is a limit to increasing attic insulation, insulation weight on the ceiling drywall can exceed it's carrying capacity, if so then either the frame spacing needs to be reduced or a thicker board must be used. If I remember correctly, you were building in the area. Agree with ionized, almost all new construction should include a 3rd party energy rater, the most common certification being Energy Star. What is cost effective or not depends on a lot of assumptions and what your timeline is. They're harder to lift and the headers on exterior walls require more work. We frame with 2x6 and insulate primarily with dense packed cellulose. With any of these products it pays to get someone who can install the insulation correctly ensuring no voids or gaps. The IRC, if it applies, only lists two kinds of exterior wood framed wall insulation applications: 1) cavity insulation and 2) cavity + continuous exterior insulation. 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